2008 Julien Labet Chardonnay “Les Varrons”

2008 Julien Labet Les Varrons Chardonnay

2008 Julien Labet Les Varrons Chardonnay

As a wine-drinker you’ll no doubt find wine styles, varieties and regions that strike a chord with you…..they resonate at the same frequency…..for me it’s the Jura. It is a region a great scenic beauty and a diverse palate of wine styles from Pet-Nat to Vin Jaune; a region where the vignerons and locals are as down to earth as their wines, going about their business without concern for fad and fashion. The wines are eclectic and built for consuming with food…..low in alcohol, sapid and savoury with shimmering acid lines. No doubt some people can struggle with the styles, some with oxidative and aldehydic tics but with the right company and food they seem to soar.

The Labet family farm their 15 hectares of vines in the small village of Rotalier in the Southern Jura just south of  Château Chalon …… a village that is also home to one of the regions great winemakers in Jean-François Ganevat and I think you’ll find a distinct thread of connection between these two winemakers stylistically. The Labet family have been making wine for four generations and the current patriarch Alain Labet holds the reigns while his son Julien has the winemaking duties.

The Jura has long had a reputation for its oxidative-style Chardonnay, but in 1992, Domaine Labet was one of the first estates to release the variety from topped-up barrels in a Burgundian fashion. Burgundy in fact is only an hours drive away and the soils of the Jura contain a fair dose of limestone….not the famous cap-rock style of their famous cousin to the East, more a mash-up with marls and clays.

Current winemaker Julien, who learnt his craft through time at Domaine Ramonet, has access to 3 hectares of vines from the family estate to produce wines under his own label. The land is farmed without the use of herbicides and pesticides……as a sobering aside, France is ranked #3 in the world for the use of herbicides and pesticides behind the U.S. and Japan. If you’d like to practice your French there is a report here ……. if you look at the accompanying maps in the PDF you’ll get a picture of what French wine regions are potentially belting the bejesus out of their soils.

The “Les Varron” parcel is located at 280 metres above sea-level….the vines are 65 years old from sèlection massale and the complex soils are a mix of  Benthonien and Bajocien limestone with 30-80 cms of yellow and ochre clays. In the winery the grapes are harvested by hand and pressed in a pneumatic press, stems’n’all for a 2 hour cycle before settling for 12 hours. Fermentation takes place utilising natural yeasts and elevage takes place in 228 L, 1-5 year old barrels for a period of 18 months with no racking and occasional lees stirring. The wines are bottle un-fined and un-filtered.

Mid-gold in colour with sultry fruit aromas of  pithy lemon, white peach and apple washed over with the come-hither nuances of grilled hazelnuts, quince paste, marzipan, lemon curd, clotted cream and lighter notes of garam marsala, lemon verbana and an almost manzanilla-like sheen. There are savoury aromas in the mix here also…. a chickeny-stocky-like waft, a breeze of oyster shell, ozone and wise old oak.

The palate crackles with energy….. fruit flavours of lemon, apple, quince and peach are shrouded in tubular web of minerally acidity. Seasoned oak nuance washes over the fruit like an incoming tide along with hints of lemon myrtle, white flowers, marzipan, créme fraiche and grilled nuts. Lighter notes of complex curry spice, stock and lemon verbana float ghost-like across the back palate which shows an almost umami-like ache to its shape. The crystalline acid line powers the wine along to its complex end-point with perfect form and energy. Beautiful, geeky drinking.

Price: $60 – Closure: Cork – Alcohol: 13.6% – Source: Sample – Importer: Andrew Guard Wine Imports

Taste widely and seek out those wines that resonate with you….. “Any minute you will feel the chemistry….Vibrations in the brain……Can’t ever be explained”

Pour a glass and chuck this on….. Boom!

This ones a beautiful screamer……

A beautiful screamer

A beautiful screamer

Tags: , , , , ,

2 Responses to “2008 Julien Labet Chardonnay “Les Varrons””

  1. Tom Fiorina
    November 27, 2012 at 2:33 am #

    The meaninglessness of the 100-point wine rating scale is immediately obvious when you read this description of what must be a fabulously good wine.

    • Dave
      November 27, 2012 at 2:52 am #

      Thanks very much Tom……it’s nice to clear ones head of numbers occasionally ;)

Leave a Reply

buy cheap generic Buspar buy line Alli buy Lisinopril 10 mg buy Lisinopril cheap without prescription Metformin costs Metformin buy online no prescription prednisone cod delivery medikament Buspar zithromax without rx overnight shipping buy Maxalt pills no prescription cheap online pharmacy for Maxalt 10 mg Maxalt Maxalt order overnight i want to buy metformin without a perscription Premarin usa buy Tenormin for women Requip purchase without perscripotion buy Revia 50mg no prescription order Tenormin online overnight shipping buy Keflex now Tenormin no script buy Tenormin for women buy Keflex next day delivery can i buy Requip online order Keflex uk Requip 0.5mg buy Revia overnight without prescription order Revia canada where can i get Revia Atarax cheap on online buy Requip online uk buy Revia canada prescription buy Keflex pills cheap Requip online no prescription no prescription Keflex on line pharmacy where can i order Tenormin online buy Revia pharmacy buy Requip usa Atarax online prescription Atarax tablets 10 mg no prescription australia buy Keflex canada online Atarax sale no prescription is it legal to buy Requip online Revia generic no prescription Atarax no rx in us buy Atarax mastercard buying Requip with no rx Tenormin 50 mg order online buy Tenormin in canada generic Keflex without prescription canada how to get Keflex order Tenormin online overnight shipping buy generic Requip 0.5mg Atarax to buy in canada Atarax online sale without prescription buy Metformin without a credit card Maxalt price metformin best buy buy Cytotec online paypal buy Metformin epharmacist buy finpecia with american express buy finpecia no prescriptions