Let’s have a gander at Trousseau from Arbois Pupillin….
Trousseau is a funky, wee red variety that struts its stuff in the Jura. You’ll find it in the following AC’s within the Jura…… Côtes du Jura, Arbois, Arbois Pupillin , Arbois Vin de Paille and Crement de Jura.
A bit further afield in Portugal it goes by the rather rude moniker of Bastardo, where it often makes its way into port. In Australia there are small plantings under the name of Gros Cabernet, though speaking to Phil Lehmann over a bottle last night, he seems to remember seeing some Bastardo going into fortifieds at his fathers Barossan winery…..it’s thought to be a cross of Duras x Petit Verdot.
Annie & Phillipe farm 6ha of land…inherited from Phillips father….near the top of the village of Pupillon. They farm biodynamically and after years of selling grapes to the local co-op, local winemaking, Jurassian legend, Pierre Overnoy convinced Phillipe to start producing his own wines from the 2005 vintage. This particular vineyard was planted in 1969 on gravel and red marl soils with scattered limestone.
A light touch in the cellar…..harvested by hand, de-stemmed and macerated for three weeks in fiberglass fermenters. The fermentations take place using natural yeasts and post-ferment the wine is transferred to large oak vats for 12 months before bottling….unfined, unfiltered and with minimal sulphur.
“Le Ginglet” is patois….or a pidgon French word that translates to being happy….and i was more than happy scoffing down this particular wine….while not as profound as say an Overnoy/Houillon, Ganevat, Tissot or Puffeney offering from the same region, it’s a terrific wine and it is certainly a domaine that is due for big things in the future.
In the glass it sits with a pale, slightly washed-out cherry red hue with amber flashes….like a light Pinot Noir.
It opens with a metric poop-load of funk….with emphasis on the poop….but with a little time in the glass it settles down nicely and begins to strut its stuff. There is some very pretty, perfumed red-fruits in the mix here with spiced cherry and redcurrant leading the way. No shortage of funk on this little monkey, with plenty of barnyard, animal and gamey nuances with hints of minerals, earth, dried flowers, orange rind, persimmon and garam marsala.
There is a bit of CO2 evident on the palate with light petilant tickle across the tongue….not uncommon at all for wines from the Jura. It’s subtle, light on its feet and focused with lovely fresh red berry fruits….sour red cherry and redcurrants predominately, supported by Indian spice, dried flowers, citrus rind, crushed rocks, light grilled meats, and again that animal/barnyard note that is more captivating than off putting.
Poised in a Burgundian stance….quite light in body, energetic with a touch of leanness, it is quite an aromatic, delicate wine….well suited to food and if you are into wines with some funky nuances give this one a crack…..beware the lure of the animal.
Price: $35 – Closure: Cork – Alcohol: 13% – Source: Sample – Importer: Terroir Wines