Probably my favourite ex-diary farmer in the whole, wide world……is Frédéric Cossard. He bangs out some superb wines both under his labels…..one called Domaine de Chassorney and the other, is a step up and is bottled under the eponymous Frédéric Cossard label.
I believe everyone should have a handful of their favourite ex-diary farmers that can be bandied around at dinner parties and the like….most of mine are old All Blacks so Fred is a breath of fresh air for my dinner guests I’m sure.
The Domaine de Chassornay holdings comprise of 7ha of rented vines around the village of Saint-Romain just to the South of Volnay….all the viticulture here is carried out organically and the cellar work is measured with natural yeasts, little SO2 and no fining or filtration……very judicious on the oak use too is our Fred.
I love the label on this wine….two old ladies appear to be gossiping on the street on their way home from church…..naughty old ladies telling hushed pork pies in the street….tut tut…..I believe the cartoon is of a Jacques Brel song “Les Bigotes” (The hypocrites). It’s incisive, minerally and pure and went down a treat with roast chicken on the weekend.
Pale straw in hue with fresh and citrussy aromas of grapefruit and pithy lemon fleshed out nicely with nectarine and juicy, ripe white peach. There’s hints of hazelnut praline, marzipan, nougat, a dab of soft spice and some curdy, creamy lees nuances drifting around the glass with the merest whiff of a sappy, herbal note.
The entry onto the palate is lively and assured with snappy citrus fruits and richer stone-fruit flavours following close behind in the shape of peach and nectarine. There’s a savoury….almost umami-like, sapid tang to the mid-palate…..softly spiced with hints of almond paste, minerals, hazelnut, nougat and white flowers.
The finish is precise and has that lip-smacking, limestoney acid line that makes you salivate and reach for another glass….the French have a term for that but I’m buggered if I can remember it but regardless…..whatever that bloody word is….this wine has it…..it’s just delicious…..focused, a joy to drink and a triumph at this level for its purity, definition and verve.
Price: $60 – Closure: Cork – Alcohol: 12.5% – Source: Cellar – Importer: Andrew Guard Fine Wines