Domaine Christophe Chablis
As the scudding clouds disperse and the weather warms, any sane drinking mans thoughts begin to focus on Chablis…. with its sapid crunchy line and malic sway it is the dogs bollocks with seafood…. in fact fish & chips and Chablis would be right up there in the “last meal” stakes….a combo that I have consumed on numerous occasions over the years and one that continues to send me off into a greasy-fingered stupor.
I managed to visit Chablis earlier in the year, unfortunately only a one-day visit but plans are already being hatched for longer visit in 2013. It is a beautiful region to visit, and like any trip to a wine region, it’s not until you are kicking the soil, tramping around vineyard sites and sampling the local cuisine that the pieces of the jigsaw begin to fall into place.
Those times, glass in hand that you notice that a certain vineyard catches the last rays of the sun for the day or feel a breeze kick in, rolling down a a slope in the late afternoon, smelling the scent of wild flowers on the breeze ….. taking in the warmth of the vignerons smiles and their willingness to impart local secrets if you show an interest in the region…..this is the same the world over….the language may change, as may the scenery but the inquisitive wine geek will be rewarded.
Domaine Christophe is only 9 years old….. a mere slip of a thing…..founded by Sébastien Christophe from vines that he inherited from his Grandfather. Previously the wine was sold to the local co-operative and the land holdings were only 0.6 hectares…..today all the wine is bottled under the domaines label and they now farm 10 hectares of vines, producing their nectar from a winery situated in the commune of Fyé, across the river from the town of Chablis.
Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation’s take place in stainless steel and the wines are aged…..with the exceptions of the 1er crus….in stainless also. The wine shows pleasing concentration and lacks none of that snappy, “borne of the sea” Kimmeridgean beauty that is so appealing from the wines of Chablis. They are wines, that when consumed by themselves, refresh and invigorate…..giving a glimpse into what is one of the worlds great terroirs….and when consumed with appropriate food, allow you to drift off into wine-matching heaven.
Pale straw in the glass with focused aromas of pithy lemon and white peach fruits. There are hints of wet stone, flint, oatmeal, oyster shell, nougat, marzipan and white flowers along with a richer edge to the aromatic profile with flashes of clotted cream, curd and a blast of crunchy green apple.
A lovely snappy, sapid entry onto with the palate with crunchy apple, lemon and white peach fruits. Following the detailed fruit flavours come hints of almond paste, marzipan, cut fennel, oyster shell, white flowers, nougat, sea spray and crushed quartz.
Energetic and nervy across the palate with a crisp line of minerally acidity….that salivating Kimmeridgean kind that works its way forward from the jowls to the tip of the tongue…the same sort of effect you get when you are hungry and look at something you really want to eat. There are light hints of meal and cream on the back palate and the finish lingers persistantly for a wine of this level. Pure, delicious and with just the right volume of sapid, slightly sour Chablis twang.
Price: $30 – Closure: Cork – Alcohol: 12.5% – Source: Cellar – Importer: Andrew Guard Wine Imports
In lieu of some random numbers I suggest pouring a glass and listening to this….
