2007 Damijan Podversic Kaplja Bianco
I am reliably informed by the importer of Gravner that the wines of Damijan Podversic are the only wines Josko Gravner enjoys drinking….now to a wine hipster or tragic geek like myself, that’s like catnip to a moggy or an extra glimpse of stocking on a windy day….it kinda gets the heart racing and makes you act a bit goofy and weird.
The estate of Damijan Podversic lies in the Gorizia hills, right on the border of Slovenia, in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region . Leaving his fathers farm to seek challenges elsewhere, he certainly did just that, setting up his vineyards in locations considered too difficult to farm by other producers in the region. After years of hard graft replanting vines and constructing terraces, his vineyards are now considered some of the best sites in Friuli.
Biodynamic in the vineyards, this also spreads over to the cellar-work which is carried out in accordance to the biodynamic calendar. Damijan’s quest for perfection and “naturalness” in his wines is well known…. no stainless-steel in the winery at all, ferments using natural yeasts, no fining or filtration, SO2 use is virtually non-existent, old oak, ceramic amphorae, extended skin contact for the white wines….the list goes on.
Damijan considers Josko Gravner as his mentor and his wines have the same pulsating energy….incredibly heady and alluring, somewhat challenging and though-provoking…..both at the top of their craft……these are wines that are alive.
A blend of Chardonnay, Tocai Friulano and Malvasia Istriana the wine is naturally fermented in large, old oak open fermenters, aged in ceramic amphorae before bottling on a waning moon…..it is an orange wine…..that is a white wine that has been produced like a red wine…..and it is a beautiful example.
Light orange in hue….like watered down apricot nectar….cloudy and turbid. The aromas are incredibly heady with spiced poached pears and apricot kernel enveloped in a cloud of souk-like, spice aromas. Very perfumed with hints of dried flowers, veal jus, stone, some estery pineapple hints, orange blossom, washed-rind cheese, stone-fruits and a achey-breaky mineral heart. Further in the back ground you’ll see aromas of cream and dabs of funk!
Energy to burn with great drive and focus across the palate. Again there are flavours of spiced pears, stonefruits, apricot and citrus fruits with that whirling-devish of souk and baking spices set over a stony plinth of chiseled minerals. The wine ebbs and flows in the glass with aromas swelling up the fading back into the mist of terroir…..there’s a touch of pine resin….just there and then its gone. Orange blossom, rosewater, petrichor, marzipan, nectarine, bread dough, jasmine and dried honey all rear there heads also.
The wine shows great intensity and exhuberence and offers seemingly endless interest to the drinker. Savoury too, with plenty of umami-like twang on the palate. It’s a wine for meditation….one to be contemplated instead of rapidly consumed. It shows fantastic balance and length and I’d recommend not chilling this wine….you’ll find it will coil up like a spring. Serve at room temperature with a good decant and you will be seeing it in the best possible light. Cracking stuff!
Price: $85 – Closure: Cork – Alcohol: 14% – Source: Dinner Guest – Importer: Lario International
Go on my lovely....try some orange wine from Friuli!
