United Artists Theatre
Some time back I was reading an article in TIME magazine called “Detroits Beautiful, Horrible Decline”….essentially a photo essay by Yves Marchand & Romain Meffre, two French photographers who captured the sadness and the beauty of the decline of Detroit. Once refered to as the “The Paris of the West” , Detroit was the poster child for the industrial dream, a metonymy for the American automobile industry and must be thanked profusely for giving us Motown, MC5, The Stooges and many more pioneering musical acts.
The photographs… are a haunting, meloncholy reminder of the fragility of grandeur….the majestic, once great shells still stand proud like an ageing starlet, and while the majority of the camera lenses may point to more attractive subjects, there is still pride, grace and structure to their form.
The intricacy of design
All around us…..the drop of a musical note to the point of sustain, sweet to the ear…..holding the skeleton of a leaf in your hand and marveling at the intricacy of its design and form….. and of course…..the wonder of decay is equally applicable to old wine.
The photos of the decline of Detroit played on my mind as I tried two old Bordeaux wines a couple of months back. The wines in question were the Chateau Pichon Lalande and Chateau Montrose, both from the 1949 vintage. One of the most sought after vintages of the last century it was the driest since 1893 and the wines are more refined and less boozy that the famous year of 1947. It was also the year that gave us the U.N, the Geneva Convention, the first VW Beetle and Porsche, Bruce Springsteen and most importantly….according to the Bacon Index…..bacon was 0.50c a pound.
Both were captivating, haunting wines….two grand old dames that were fascinating to drink. The Montrose had a few less wrinkle around her eyes and showed a bit more spark but both were captivating. Personally, I’d have liked to see them in the ’70′s maybe….most likely wearing a floral shirt and flared tasting trousers….I’m a fan of drinking wines sooner rather than later but there was no doubt there was an intrinsic beauty to the decay of these two, grand wines.
Can Bordeaux produce wines like this today?……I don’t know but I’d hazard a guess and say no. Of course I’m happy for you to bring it up and remind me I was wrong at a tasting in the next life, but there is no doubt there has been a substantial stylistic shift in the region thanks to technology and the wine by design phenomena of chasing the points…..that is what makes trying these wines such an emotional experience.
At what point to you cease to harp on about on about terroir when the winery inputs and the quest for concentration and wow factor nullifies the voice of the earth……there are a few exceptions but many wines shown at the en primeur tastings have more in common with Napa Cabernet than the Clarets of old….and rising alcohol levels?….while the wine press finds them repulsive in New World wines they seem to be a little more palatable on this side of the pond.
There is great beauty in old wines….just don’t leave them too long.
The beauty of decay
And an ode to Detroit and the jamminess of modern Bordeaux.
A couple of old dames
Beautiful imagery!
Both the words and the photos.
Kudos!
Best wishes,
Nannette Eaton
Thanks very much Nannette!
Great post Dave, interesting reflections on decay and change. Where did you find these wines?
Hey Michael….thanks mate. These can from the cellar of a friends Father and we had them at a yearly wine dinner/tasting extravaganza at his holiday house.
Great post. Am new to you, and what an intro! Thanks Dave
Thanks very much Marie….I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Great write up on what sounds like some fun wines. I can’t agree with you more about the high alcohol level outcry with regard to New World wines. The conversation just seems to have been started with regard to Bordeaux, especially on the heels of the ’09 campaign. My sample set is small but what I’ve had doesn’t seem cut out to go 50+ years like our grandparent’s claret.
Thank you my man!…..Indeed….I went over for the 09 En Primeur campaign and there were some pretty heady wines in the mix….I’d question their longevity also.
Big news for you guys last week mate!……I don’t doubt you have some cool stuff in the pipeline and let me know what you are up to in the future.
Great post ..conjured up images of smoking robes, smoking fires and smoking….whilst waxing lyrically….made a lovely soundtrack in my head….good stuff! Still trying to get to that coffee….wanna have a look at the mastroberardino falanghina soon? Drank the 1961 beychevelle with mischa and j lane last week to celebrate my wrinkles and matched with Susie wongs cabbage rolls from the lovely Nina it sang….
Thanks Gill…..certainly love to have a look at the falanghina and a coffee is certainly on the cards…..give me a call anytime you are in the Barossa.
I wish more wines were built to age and develop these days… and that I had the patience to wait on them
Spot on Joe….I’ve never been the best at keeping my hands off the wines in my cellar also
The wine spotlight has always been sharp and hot. Its fascinating that higher alcohol in the new world is a curse, and in Bordeaux there appears to be a strong correlation with alcohol and rising prices. I did read once that the 47 Cheval Blanc was 14.5% despite it 11.5% label. Its aged fairly well by all accounts. Must open one soon.
I think I should be around when you open that up Boz!…..agree….look at the 1965 bin 3100 and 3110….one of Australia’s great wines and both of those are pushing 15%.