Jacques Puffeney is one of the stars of the Jura….in fact one of my favourite wines this year has been a wine from the Jura….a Pierre Overnoy Arbois Pupillin which was like a 15 year old Burgundy…super natural and endlessly complex but I wine to be enjoyed now and not for the cellar…..I can quickly see the Puffeney wines may have the same effect.
The Jura is probably most famous for its Vin Jaune ….the nutty, ethereal, sherry-like (or szamorodni Tokaj for that matter) wine produced from Savignan in ullaged casks under a film of yeast called a voile…..very similar to the flor in the production of sherry.
The region itself is squished between Burgundy and Switzerland….the gateway to the mountains. Jacques and Monique Puffeney produce their wines from 7.5ha of vineyards in Arbois and this particular wine is a blend of Savignan and Chardonnay….the Savignan component is aged sous voile in the ullaged casks, gently oxidising while the Chardonnay component is made in a more Burgundian fashion. Unfined and unfiltered.
Pale straw in hue with a captivating funky nose of walnuts, bread dough, green apple, peach, fennel, spice and hazelnuts with hints of salty minerality, old furniture, nettle and a faint waft of garam marsala.
In the mouth it is sappy and chewy with a nervy gait..there is a great interplay between the lightly oxidised Savignan and the more rounded, citric Chardonnay. Again reminiscent of a fino sherry with walnut and hazelnut tones, bread and stone-fruit….swathed in minerals, spice and herbs with a crunchy acid line and a superb lingering finish. One for the wine geeks and an enchanting wine at that….would make a superb aperitif or maybe try with Comte…a local Jura cheese.
Price:$40
Closure: Cork
Alcohol:13.5%
Jacques Puffeney
Nice note, Dave. tasted the 09 Pierre Overnoy Arbois Pupillin with friends in Edinburgh last week. out of this world! Looking forward to Jacques 08 & 09 reds in Australia this year. Love your pic of Jacques…doesnt he look just like Jerry Garcia? Ha.
Heya Nic. Looking forward to trying the 09 Overnoy Arbois….last scoffed a bottle of 08 out of a dodgy plasti cups on the banks of the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris….gluggable with heaps of CO2. Hope your trip is going well and give me a yell when you get back!